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Sirac u Konavlima – Blog Muzeja i galerija Konavala Skip to content Sir je općepoznata namirnica koja se priprema u svim dijelovima svijeta gdje se živi uz stoku. Još od vremena Dubrovačke Republike zabilježena je ljubav prema siru, zapravo država je propisivala korištenje ove namirnice. U 14. stoljeću u gradu se prodavalo osam vrsta sira, neki iz uvoza, a neki domaće proizvodnje. Uvozilo se s Brača, iz Kotora i iz Bosne. Stočarsko zaleđe obilato je proizvodilo sireve koji su se plasirali na dubrovačkoj placi, premda ni oni domaće proizvodnje nisu zaostajali. Prodavali su se tvrdi sirevi koji su mogli stajati, sirevi iz ulja, a u proljetnim mjesecima ipak je bio najpopularniji mladi sir iz bliže okolice. Mladim sirom, bobom i žućenicom gostilo se do početka ljeta. Dubrovnik je u jednom trenutku bio vodeći grad po izvozu sira koji se dovozio iz bosansko-hercegovačkog zaleđa.
Sir se dobiva grušanjem mlijeka, a poticanje grušanja može se izazvati kiselinom, fermentacijom mliječnog šećera čime nastaje kiseli gruš, a čiji je proces ustvari nama poznatiji kao kvarenje mlijeka. Mlijeko koje je ostavljeno na temperaturi do 30 stupnjeva počinje fermentirati dok se ne razdvoje surutka i kiseli gruš. Za potpuno odvajanje potrebno je oko 24 sata. Kao dodatni proizvod, prilikom odvajanja sira od surutke, na površini se ukiseli masnoća i postane kiselo vrhnje. Ako se obere, to kiselo vrhnje tučenjem se pretvara u maslac. Dobivanje sira ovim postupkom karakteristično je za sjevernu Hrvatsku, a kod nas je bilo rijetko korišteno, kako kazivači donose, uglavnom za proizvodnju maslaca.
Drugi način dobivanja sira je onaj u kojem se koristi sirište, odnosno enzimi mikrobnog ili životinjskoga podrijetla. Od surutke se tada odvoji takozvani slatki gruš, a grušanje se, osim životinjskim, može potaknuti i nekim biljnim enzimima. Tako je zabilježeno da je za sirenje korišteno sjeme bročike. Taj slatki gruš nastaje djelovanjem sirišta u roku od oko sat vremena. I upravo je ovaj način karakterističan za konavosku proizvodnju sira. O životinjskom sirištu već smo pisali, pa ćemo se samo podsjetiti da se prije kupovnog sirišta koristila opna želudca teleta ili koje druge životinje koja se otapala u surutki, nakon čega bi se s tom tekućinom poticalo sirenje. Do saznanja o proizvodnji sira na ovaj način možemo zasigurno zahvaliti transportu sira u prošlosti u mješinama koje su sadržavale sirište. Ovakvom proizvodnjom nastaje slatki gruš čijom daljnjom obradom nastaju različiti trajni sirevi.
Brojne su vrste sireva koji prvenstveno ovise o vrsti mlijeka koja se koristila za proizvodnju, potom o vrsti sirišta, a nakon svega o temperaturi i zrenju sira. Naime, surutka i sir su puni mikroorganizama koji i dalje rade . Njihova regulacija ovisi o temperaturi, uvjetima u okolišu i mnogočemu i tome možemo pripisati razlike u okusima sireva od kuće do kuće iako su rađeni istim postupkom. Što je temperatura sirenja viša, to će sir biti tvrđi, a što više tekućine u njemu ostane, to će mu struktura biti rupičastija kad se osuši.
A iz same surutke se da napraviti još jednu vrstu sira – skutu. U Konavlima se zove pujina i nastaje nakon prikupljanja gruša, odnosno sira. Pujina je meki slatki sir koji nastaje zagrijavanjem surutke do vrenja. Postupak je to u kojem se na otpilike 90 stupnjeva iz surutke odvaja novi gruš, drugačije strukture od sira. Da bi se povećala količina, u surutku se prije vrenja dolije nešto malo mlijeka. Dakle, u surutku nakon grušanja sira pređu termolabilne bakterije koje na većoj temperaturi stvaraju surutkin gruš ili skutu. Pujina i meki sir nastao kiseljenjem ne mogu dugo trajati, pa se jedu svježi ili kuhani, a slatki gruš, odnosno sir se i dalje obrađivao za stajanje.
U Konavlima je poznata velika proizvodnja sira, naročito na Konavoskim brdima. Sir s brda je kvalitetniji i ukusniji, čemu pridonosi prehrana stoke u oskudnoj kamenarskoj vegetaciji, kao i način sušenja na vjetrovitom području s dosta manje vlage nego je ima u konavoskoj vali. Vegetacija Konavoskih brda uz to obiluje ljekovitim biljem koje je paša stoki, pa je sastav brdskog mlijeka posebne kvalitete. Na brdima se držalo dosta stoke sitnog zuba i po nekoliko krava. Zabilježeno je da su zadružne obitelji od druge polovice 19. stoljeća do Drugog svjetskog rata imale po 300 grla ovaca i koza, uz krave. Živjelo se isključivo od stočarstva, pa su mnoge obitelji u drugoj polovici 20. stoljeća othranile svoju djecu proizvodeći i prodajući sir.
Životinje su se muzle ujutro i navečer, a u proljeće, od Uskrsa do iza Spasovdana muzlo se i na podne, naročito ovce. Trgovci iz grada bi dolazili od Uskrsa do Spasova kupovati jagnjiće za meso, pa bi ih digli ovcama. Onda je vajalo da ih se i treći put pomuze da se održi mlijeko. Ovca bi se inače počela opet mrkat, (it pod omna), pa bi jom nestalo mlijeko, a o Mratinju bi opet imali jagnjiće. Krave se kotilo naporede da se vazda ima mlijeka, a telići su im se dizali sa 40 dana. Ako bi prošlo 40 dana, trgovci bi ga držali za june pa bi dosta izgubili na tome. A neke krave bi spojile mlijeko, skotne bi se muzle skorom do kraja. Onda prije nego se okoti bi prestali musti jer bi mlijeko bilo grko i gusto. Ko je imo krave, držo bi uz ostali živor one fureste koze. Te koze nisu mogle stat po brdima, nji bi vezali kraj kuće da brstu i glođu, a bilo bi mlijeka i po dvije godine od njih.
Tako se mlijeko sirilo svakodnevno. Miješalo se kravlje, kozje i ovčje, kako je u koga bilo. Žene koje su bile za sirenje ulile bi svježe mlijeko u kuto i stavile na mali oganj ili na sunce, uz dodatak soli i sirišta. Nakon nešto više od po ure bi se počelo odvajati sir od surutke. Nakon toga slijedilo bi kupljenje sira rukama i nježno pritiskanje da se ocijedi višak surutke. Kalupi za sir počeli su se koristiti u drugoj polovici 20. stoljeća, a dotad bi oblik sirca zadale žene stiskanjem i oblikujući ga rukama. Ako bi se prejako stisnulo sir, on bi se raspao, a ako bi bilo prenježno, surutka se ne bi ocijedila.
Pokonja tete bi po cijelo veče sjedala kraj špahera i sirila. Onako umorna, kako je vazda radila, često bi zaspala sireći, panula bi joj glava, a dundo bi joj onda svojim čibukom pod nos podigo glavu i prenuo. Vazda joj je jadnici bilo pod nosom rana od vrelog čibuka. Od sira se živjelo, a proizvodio se svakodnevno.
Premda se u Konavlima štovao odmor od rada nedjeljom, taj luksuz sebi nisu mogli priuštiti oni koji su živjeli od stočarstva. Životninja ne pita koji je dan, ni svetac ni petak, ne zna ni za Oskrsenje ni za Božić, vaja pomust, vaja usirit… Moglo se ostavit mlijeko najviše odjutra doveče ko je imo puč ili gustejrnu da stoji u studenu, a gledalo se vazda čim se pomuze usirit.
Usireni i oblikovani sirac ostavljao bi se dan dva da se ocijedi, a onda je išao na sušenje. Žene bi pečice sira oblikovale tako da u moskaduru može stajati na kraćoj strani uspravnom kako bi mu što veća površina bila na svježem zraku. Onda bi ga se okretalo i sušilo i pazilo da se ne presuši. Suhe je bilo jednostavnije prodavat jer nije trebalo toliko paziti. Bez surutke se nisu mogli pokvariti kao meki. Ako bi suhog sira bilo viška, konzerviralo bi ga se stavljanjem u uje. Ulje bi mu dodatno promijenilo okus i vrijednost i, osim što se mogao duže čuvati, sir iz ulja postao je pravi specijalitet.
U proizvodnji sira na 10 litara mlijeka dobije se otprilike kilogram i po sira, ostalo je surutka. Surutku koja je ostajala nakon cijelog procesa nije se bacalo. Znalo se i u prošlosti za njenu vrijednost za zdravlje. Ugrijalo bi je se skoro do vrenja – da se napuva – i njome bi se prelilo po starijem domaćem kruhu, što je bilo dobra večera koju su naročito voljela djeca. Sav ostali višak davao se pracima.
U nacionalnoj ponudi priznatih sireva konavoski sir nije našao svoje brendirano mjesto, premda ga odlikuju vrijednosti i specifičnosti koje mu je svojedobno priznala i administracija Franja Josipa. Od mirisne paše, preko radnih ruka, čistog konavoskog zraka do trpeza, danas ga još uvijek održavaju brojna kućanstva Konavala. Razlika između konavoskog domaćeg i kupovnog sira je ogromna, a razlika od ostalih sireva šireg područja zamjetna. Upravo zahvaljujući ovim obiteljima još uvijek baštinimo okuse prošlosti.
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