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Mratin dan – Blog Muzeja i galerija Konavala Skip to content Spomenik vinu u Komajima Sveti Martin, biskup grada Toursa i kršćanski svetac, živio je u 4. stoljeću te se u Katoličkoj Crkvi ističe kao prvi svetac koji je imao svoj blagdan premda nije bio mučenik, nego se istaknuo svojim milosrdnim djelima, biskupskom službom i kršćanskim životom. Stoljećima je jedan od popularnijih svetaca u Katoličkoj Crkvi važan za razvoj zapadnoeuropskoga redovništva. Posvećene su mu brojne crkve, a u Konavlima ih danas nalazimo u Gabrilima te do 15. stoljeća u Pridvorju na mjestu današnje crkve svetog Vlaha u sklopu franjevačkog samostana, a i samo selo Pridvorje zvalo se Sveti Martin. Premda je kult svetog Martina u europskom kontekstu vezan uz nekoliko datuma, u Hrvatskoj se njegovo slavljenje odnosi na svečev blagdan 11. studenog.
Najbitnija asocijacija svetkovine svetog Martina obilate su pučke degustacije vina i proslave koje su zamijenile iskonsku sakralnu tradiciju profanom, a razlog tome svakako leži i u datumskoj odrednici blagdana. Naime, početak studenog inače se simbolično shvaća kao granični period između ljetnog i zimskog razdoblja kad su kuće većim dijelom opskrbljene prehrambenim i drugim materijalnim dobrima, kako je to Baltazar Bogišić već u 19. stoljeću zapazio: Krumpiri se iskopali, kukuruz pobrao, sjerak požeo, a pšenica bjelica i ječam već u hambarima (skrinjah) u zatvoru… Vino se otočilo i bačve napunile… Kuća je za zimu obskrbljena… Martinja je, kako je kazano blizu…
Crkva svetog Martina, Gabrile Nadalje, u Konavlima se i danas može čuti izraz mratinje jeto odnoseći se na posljednje kratko i iznenadno lijepo vrijeme prije početka zime, a koje je narod evidentirao referirajući se na svetog Martina kao znakovitog sveca u mjesecu studenom. Zimski period tradicijske kulture obilježen je i mnogobrojnim poslovima u zatvorenom kojih nikad nije manjkalo, a konavoska poslovica s prizvukom opominjanja Pitat će te đurđevi dani, đe su ti bile mratinje noći i Što nijesi prela u čemu bi žela sugerira duge zimske noći koje su žene koristile za ručni rad i pripremu ruva opet se referirajući na martinsku vremensku odrednicu.
Početkom nove poljoprivredne sezone neće se imat kad sjedat i vest, stoga je trebalo svrsishodno iskoristiti mratinje noći. Svi ovi izrazi narodne usmene predaje zrcale odnos tradicijskog čovjeka i prirode odnosno njegove svakodnevnice velikim dijelom određene agrarnom godinom, a dan svetog Martina ipak je najznačajnije obilježen u vinogradskoj tradiciji u običaju krštenja mošta, odnosno mladog vina kao najočiglednijeg izraza isprepletenosti katoličke i pučke tradicije.
Pretakanje vina u Gradu Svetkovina svetog Martina u Hrvatskoj najpoznatija kao Martinje datumski odgovara prispijeću mladog vina kao najvažnijem rezultatu i plodu cjelogodišnjeg truda i rada vinogradara, a ujedno označava i kraj vinogradarske godine. Sveti Martin kalendarski simbolično stoji nad uvjetno rečeno alkemijskim procesom pretvorbe mošta u vino, stoga ne čudi što ga vinogradari i vinari slave kao jednog od svojih važnijih zaštitnika.
Vinsko slavlje u čast svetog Martina uz kušanje mladog vina uključuje ceremonijalni obred krštenja mladog vina. Ta je tradicija najpoznatija u sjeverozapadnoj Hrvatskoj, ali se i od druge polovice 20. stoljeća prakticira i u našim južnim krajevima koja su također značajno vinorodno područje. Doduše, starija tradicija pamti izvornije rituale koji su jednako obilježavali ovaj bitni vinski martinski trenutak te je još Pavlina Bogdan Bijelić 1918. godine zabilježila na Grudi da se O svetom Martinu navrću bačvice i da na Martinje koji domaćin istoči vina iz svake bačve, druge godine će mu dobro rodit kao čin poticajne, to jest srećonosne magije utkan u tkivo kršćanskog kalendara. A kao novija tradicija vinokušnje s parodijskim prikazom pretvorbe mošta u vino u Konavlima je najpoznatija i najdugovječnija u Komajima.
Krštenje vina u Komajima, Kokam Udruga Kokam, kratica duhovitog naziva Komajska kalaška mornarica od svog osnutka na komajskom kupalištu Bugovina 1978. godine okuplja vinogradare i vinare te na edukativnom planu i promotivnim aktivnostima njeguje samu proizvodnju vina te kulturu vinskih običaja. Udruga svake godine uoči dana svetog Martina u komajskom Domu kulture organizira vinsku manifestaciju kušanja mladih vina, prvotno namijenjenu komajskim vinarima, da bi se s vremenom proširila na sva sela matične župe. Najintrigantniji dio ovog vinskog slavlja početak je manifestacije kad se izvodi simbolično krštenje mladog vina uz blagoslov vinara. Riječ je o šaljivom parodijskom obredu u obliku dramskog igrokaza u kojem se oponašaju crkveni obredi, osobito čitanje litanija.
Biskup Martin u stiliziranom kostimu uz prisustvo kanonika i ministranata i s neophodnim priborom za ceremonijal krsti mlado vino čitajući humoristične molitve poput Vino naše koje jesi na trpezama, sveti se ime tvoje, ulij se u grlo moj e ili Slava ocu, sinu i vinu, kako bijaše na početku, tako da ostane do novog trganja, ada i vazda u vijeke vjekova: Amen, a čitaju se i šaljive zdravice poput Sačuvaj nas Bože od preseljenja zračne luke, začepljenog piska i sladora niska, od sumporne maće, od zapuštenog ložđa i makedonskog grožđa . Nakon obreda krštenja slijedi službeni dio manifestacije, kušanje uzoraka mladih vina. Stručni sud odnosno Kokamova komisija ocjenjuje i nagrađuje najbolje crno i bijelo vino koje se nastavlja piti tijekom svečane večere i slavlja, a jedan petolitarski bocun najbolje ocijenjenog crnog vina se izdvaja te po običaju na Gospu Nuncijatu postavlja na jedinstveni spomenik vinovoj lozi i vinu smješten na Trgu kotarskih velikana u Komajima.
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